What to see and do in NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Laissez les bon temps rouller
Georgia L. Irby-Massie, Baylor University
December, 2002

 

The Big Easy, the Crescent City (so-called for the bend in "the river") has something for everyone. The ambiance, part southern, part continental, is unique, and the cultural mix includes French, Spanish, African, German, and "American." Louisiana law is based on the Napoleonic code (not English common law), and numerous national flags have flown over this city: France, Spain, Britain, West Florida Republic, U.S., and ñ briefly ñ an independent Louisiana flag (the Bonnie Blue). This city has something for everyone. Much is necessarily omitted, and I offer apologies to any whose favorite attractions and restaurants are not listed. For a comprehensive on-line guide, go to www.neworleansonline.com

Contents:

State trivia:

  • named by Robert de LaSalle for Louis XIV, king of France.
  • admitted to the union on 30 April, 1812 (18th state).
  • state nickname: "the pelican state".
  • state motto: Union, Justice, Confidence.
  • state colors: gold, white, and blue (believe it or not, not Mardi Gras gold, purple, and green).
  • state drink: milk (yes, milk, officially...).
  • one of the state songs: "You are my sunshine" (co-penned by former LA governor, Jimmie Davis, and Charles Mitchell).
  • state reptile: you guessed it, the alligator.
  • state mammal: Louisiana Black Bear (see them at the Audubon zoo).
  • state insect: American Honey bee (LA is one of the largest honey producers).
  • state bird: Brown Pelican, hence the nickname.
  • state crustacean: yes, LA has an official state crustacean, the crawfish, what else? some people consider crawfish a delicacy, others wonder just how hungry a person must be before heíll eat a crawfish... I leave it to you, gentle reader, to decide for yourself.

Local Lingo:

  • bayou: a very slowly moving river.
  • beignet: a Cajun square doughnut, served with LOTS of powdered sugar, a must try. Remember, food consumed at the APA contains no calories, so, enjoy...
  • chicory: a thick-rooted bitter herb added to coffee, recommended to those who like their coffee STRONG.
  • Cajuns: descendents of French Canadians (Acadians) forcibly moved in the 18th century, many speak an archaic French dialect, many speak "English" with a "distinctive" accent.
  • creoles: Franco-Spanish descendents, the elite class of early New Orleans society.
  • fais-do-do: all-nighter Cajun street dance.
  • lagniappe: "a little extra" something or service added for free.
  • Mardi Gras: Carnival season, from Epiphany (6 January) to Mardi Gras day.
  • king cake: served during Carnival, a cinnamon-dough cake with assorted sweet fillings, king cake represents the three wise men and is decorated in glazes of Mardi Gras colors: Purple (representing Justice), Green (representing Faith) and Gold (representing Power). A bean or plastic baby (representing the baby Jesus) is baked into the cake. Whoever finds the bean must bring the next king cake or throw the next party; it is the most grievous breach of etiquette to put the baby back.
  • krewes: various clubs whose members are responsible, financially and artistically, for Mardi Gras parades, floats, and "throws". Some famous New Orleans Krewes include those of Bacchus, Orpheus (founded by Harry Connick, jr.), and Zulu.
  • throws: beads, candy, toys and other items thrown to parade "observers," if you can call anyone at a Mardi Gras parade an "observer." People on both sides of the float assume personae and dress to impress or shock. The parade is a contest in the finest Homeric sense. No one can have two many pounds of plastic Mardi Gras beads, and whoever comes home with the most loot wins. "Throw me something, mister!"
  • muffuletta: a meaty sandwich with marinated vegetables, mozzarella, garlic, olive oil.
  • parish: LA-speak for "county".
  • po boy: despite what the locals say, a submarine sandwich or hoagy.
  • pirogue: not the potato-and-cheese-delicacy made by my Polish grandmother, a pirogue is a long, narrow boat, made from a cyprus log, good for navigating the shallow bayous.
  • Vieux Carré: the French Quarter, the cityís original settlement and center of French population during the early days of statehood.
  • zydeco: upbeat variety of Cajun music (not that normal Cajun music is not upbeat), accordions and washboards produce the characteristic sound.

Things to see: most attractions charge admission. Free sites are so marked.

in the quarter

  • Aquarium of the Americas: A very popular site, full to the gills every time I visited, but worth the time especially if you like exotic, other-worldly creatures. In addition to fishes from all over, there are nice displays of penguins, sea-horses, sea dragons, and mesmerizing jellies. If you ever wanted to pet a shark, this might be your chance to get up close and personal with a baby nurse shark. Donít miss New Orleansí newest cute couple, the playful sea otters Emma and Buck. Canal at the river. 800-774-7394. http://www.auduboninstitute.org/fhome.htm
  • Jackson Square: the heart of the Vieux Carré, see "Old Hickory" à la equestrienne, have your tarot cast, your fortune read, your caricature made, watch the buskers, or just observe the waxing and ebbing of a city which nurtures the bizarre. Jackson Square is one of the few non-alcoholic attractions which does not close at 4:59 p.m. sharp. In 1840, Andrew Jackson actually laid the cornerstone of his own monument.
  • St. Louis Cathedral: Free. Dedicated to St. Louis IX of France, a crusading king, the basilica dominates Jackson Square. The current church was dedicated and put into service on Christmas Eve, 1794. Jean Lafitte (see below) worshipped here. The cathedral performed memorial services for Lafayette and Napoleon. Here also were celebrations in honor of Andrew Jackson (1815 and 1840) and Zachary Taylor, future president and hero of the Mexican war (1847). Volunteers conduct tours daily between services. Jackson Square. 504-861-9521.
  • The Cabildo of the Louisiana State Museum: built to house the governing body of Spanish Colonial New Orleans, this building now houses a museum tracing Louisianaís complex history from European settlement to reconstruction. Some of the highlights include Napoleonís death mask, a lock of Andrew Jacksonís hair, and that exquisite Jacques-Louis David equestrian painting of Napoleon crossing the Alps. The Cabildo faces Jackson square, 701 Chartres. 504-568-6968 or 800-568-6968. http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/cabildo/cabildo.htm
  • Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, Visitor Center: Free. A gateway to the complex of sites making up the Jean Lafitte national park. Each unit is dedicated to one aspect of Louisiana history or culture. I mention two: the Barataria Preserve, the center of Lafitteís piratical operations, now a wildlife preserve used for boating and "hiking" (what passes for hiking in the swamps); and the Chalmette Battlefield, the site of the Battle of New Orleans, 1815, where Lafitte and Jackson joined forces to repel the British. If you have the time see, "The Buccaneer," either or both Hollywood versions (1938, 1958: Yul Brynner with hair!). Park rangers at the Visitor Center conduct walking tours of the French Quarter and the Garden district. 419 Decatur. 504-589-3882. http://www.nps.gov/jela/
  • Old U.S. Mint: a defunct U.S. and Confederate mint, the building now tells the history of New Orleans music, jazz and other. Learn more about the cityís favorite son Louis Armstrong, the elegant Duke Ellington, Dizzy Gillespie and his integration efforts. Satchmo Summerfest is, appropriately, held on the grounds of the mint in early August on the anniversary of Satchmoís birth. "Itís a wonderful world..." The Matisse Jazz exhibit is on display until 12 January. 400 Esplanade Ave. 800-568-6968 or 504-568-6968. http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/site/mintex.htm
  • Musée Conti Wax Museum: life-sized and costumed wax figures. Highlights include Napoleon in his bath, the signing of the Louisiana Purchase, Jean Lafitte and Andrew Jackson on the battlefield, Louis Armstrong, Audubon, and a "Haunted Dungeon" with a magnificent Cyclops. Great fun for kids of all ages. 917 Conti. 800-233-5405 or 504-581-1993. http://www.get-waxed.com
  • New Orleans Jazz: Free. A unit of the national park service, this nascent park celebrates Jazz as an American art form. I havenít seen their new digs, so I cannot say what or how much they have. The rangers should have information on local events. 419 Decatur. 877-520-0677, 504-589-4841. http://www.nps.gov/neor/index.htm
  • Voo Doo Museum: Iíve never been. One friend claims the site as a favorite, another bemoans having wasted the time. 217 N. Peters. 504-523-7685.

 


just outside the quarter

  • National D-Day Museum: A real gem, the museum is informative, entertaining, sobering, and life-affirming. Exhibits address both military and social history. Worth the time just to see the propaganda posters, if it were not for all the rest. The displays are clearly and comprehensively marked. The Higgins boat, instrumental in the allied successes in WWII, particularly in the Allied Invasion of the Normandy Coast, was designed by a fellow from southern Louisiana who used his experiences on the shallow bayous to design a boat to facilitate invasion from the channel. Remember the "Ruperts" from the movie, "D-Day"? See one on display. You can even purchase a replica of John Wayneís "clicker" in the gift shop. The "D-Day Beaches" is an outstanding exhibit but graphic and brutally honestónot for the meek of heart. The recently opened "Pacific Theater" is just as remarkable, thought-provoking, and sobering. 945 Magazine. 504-527-6012. http://www.ddaymuseum.org
  • Memorial Hall Confederate Museum: Youíve got to see it to believe it. The museum displays civil war memorabilia and some personal effects of Robert E. Lee and Jefferson Davis (including the notorious crown of thorns which the pope sent to him during his unfortunate incarceration after the recent unpleasantness with our neighbors to the north). The interpretative plaques, the acme of concision, were produced on old type-writers (remember those?) and were full of errors, both orthographic and syntactic. I was so distracted by the typos that they became the exhibit. Pity, as the museum owns some interesting artifacts. Across the street from the D-Day museum. 929 Camp. 504-523-4522. http://www.confederatemuseum.com/
  • Audubon Zoo: My personal favorite site in New Orleans. On 58 acres, the zoo, named for Audubon ipse, consists of naturalistic settings exhibiting animals from all over the world. In early January, the Louisiana Swamp exhibit may be your best bet for a "swamp tour," and the layout is informative regarding both animal and culture. The Jaguar Jungle is an attractive and creative mix of South American decor and fauna. Notice the newly built play area, complete with hill, so the local kids can have the experience of climbing a "hill". On weekends, you can hear the keepers talk about the animals and see elephant and sea lion shows. Donít miss Sarge, the agéd blue and scarlet macaw who knows how to imitate chickens and goats. If he likes you, he might, just might, favor you with a word or two, but only if you fawn sincerely ñ he has a healthy ego. May I suggest getting there via the zoo cruise (see "other suggestions")? 6500 Magazine Street. 800-774-7394. http://www.auduboninstitute.org/fhome.htm
  • Blaine Kernís Mardi Gras World: If your interest is Mardi Gras, this is the site for you. Take the free ferry across the river and visit this workshop-cum-museum. Floats for parades around the country are built on-site. Watch the introductory video, try on Mardi Gras costumes, sample king cake, and see some floats. One cannot help but believe that the worship of Dionysus is alive and well in NOLA. Take the free ferry across the river and then the Blaine Kern free shuttle to the attraction. 233 Newton. 888-546-2734. http://www.mardigrasworld.com/

a drive away

  • Cemeteries: Necropoles within the city limits. Topography necessitated above-ground burial, as graves would fill with water even before the coffins were lowered. The result is stunning funerary architecture. St. Louis Cemetery no. 3 (on Esplanade near City Park) contains tombs of old Creole families. Lafayette Cemetery no. 1 (between Washington and Prytania, 6th and Coliseum) features somewhat simpler architecture. Metairie Cemetery (next to Greenwood) is the largest and a real showcase. Some friendly advice, if I may, donít go alone after dark, or better yet, donít go after dark. See also: http://www.saveourcemeteries.org
  • New Orleans Museum of Art: A nice balanced collection of art from around the world, from 14th century tempera to modern African, the permanent holdings include works by Degas, who visited the city in the 1870s and a goodly collection of Fabergé luxury items, eggs, miniature carvings of animals and flowers, and other pieces produced for the Romanovs. 1 Collins Dibol Circle in City Park. 504-488-2631. http://www.noma.org

Other Suggestions:

  • Aquarium/Zoo Cruise: take a 7 mile riverboat ride between the Aquarium and the Zoo. The captain often delivers a fascinating narrative about the Mississippi, a modern working river, ship registry, and river etiquette. Combination zoo/aquarium/round-trip cruise tickets are available. Purchase tickets and embark on the river-side of the aquarium. 800-233-2628. http://www.aquariumzoocruise.com/
  • Walking Tours of the French Quarter: For guided tours, contact the NPS Jean Lafitte Visitors Center (504-589-3882) or the Friends of the Cabildo (504-523-3939). NPS tours: daily, 10:30; Cabildo tours: Tues-Sun at 10:00 and 1:30. For self-guided walking tours, check out the AAA Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi tour book or go to http://www.neworleansonline.com/fqtour/fq00map.html.
  • Cemetery Tours: For guided tours: 888-721-749 or 504-525-3377. http://www.saveourcemeteries.org
  • Haunted New Orleans Tour: For guided tours: 888-644-6787 or 504-861-2727. http://www.hauntedhistorytours.com
  • French Market: open air stands for produce and wares, informal restaurants. In the quarter along Decatur between St. Ann and Ursulines. 504-522-2621 or 504-596-3424. http://www.frenchmarket.org
  • St. Charles Avenue Streetcar: public transportation used by the locals. Besides, admit it, trolleys are fun! From Canal up St. Charles. 504-248-3900.
  • Antiquing: Shop for Antiques along Royal and Magazine from 6th to Henry Clay. As You Like It Silver: 800-828-2311; Charbonnet & Charbonnet: 800-891-9948; Dixon and Dixon: http://www.dixon-antiques.com; Royal Street Guild: http://www.royalstreetguild.com
  • Take a walk down Bourbon Street just to say you did it. "Medicinals" are available on-site for the highly strung.
  • City Park: the Christmas lights might still be on display in City Park. A good family night out if you brought your kids and a car. north end of Esplanade Ave. 504-482-4888
  • Lake Ponchartrain Causeway: the longest over-water 4-lane divided highway, the bridge crosses 24 miles of open water, with no land in sight for 8 of those miles; the drive is stunning, especially on a bright, clear day.

Famous Writers and literary landmarks: see further Susan Larson and Thomas Lynch, The Bookloverís Guide to New Orleans, LSU Press, 1999 or http://www.neworleansonline.com/tours-attractions/tours/literaryno.html

  • The William Faulkner House, 624 Pirate's Alley (near the St. Louis Cathedral).
  • Tennessee Williams lived in the French Quarter at722 Toulouse, 710 Orleans, where he wrote "Ten Blocks on the Camino Real", 632 St. Peter, where he wrote "A Streetcar Named Desire," and 1014 Dumaine. He frequented Galatoire's Restaurant, 209 Bourbon.
  • The Beauregard-Keyes House, 1113 Chartres. The home of, among others, novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes, "Dinner at Antoine's."
  • The Monteleone Hotel, 214 Royal. Famous literary guests include Truman Capoteís parents, Faulkner, Richard Ford, Winston Grooms, Eudora Welty, and Tennessee Williams. Donít miss the Carousel Bar.
  • Anne Rice: 2524 St. Charles Ave., setting of "Violin"; 1239 First St., her primary residence, setting of "The Witching Hour"; 1314 Napoleon Ave., formerly St. Elizabeth's Orphanage, now open for tours of Anne Rice's Doll Museum and the Stan Rice Gallery. The Anne Rice Collection is located at The Rink, on the corner of 2727 Prytania.
  • John Grisham set "The Pelican Brief" in NOLA.
  • Kate Chopinís "The Awakening" prominently features Esplanade Avenue.

Music and Nightlife: Just listening to the some very talented and soulful street musicians can be quite a treat. As for clubs, reservations are never a bad idea. See http://www.neworleansonline.com/neworleans/music/musicclubs.html for a listing of clubs by location and also http://www.offbeat.com All locations are in the Quarter or JUST outside unless noted otherwiseÖ

  • Gambling
    •
    • legal on the river, casinos are not hard to find. For example: Harrahís, Canal at the river. 504-533-6000 http://www.harrahs.com
  • Dixieland
    •
    • Sweet Kathleen's Dixieland Jazz Club: 308 Decatur and 311 N. Peters 504-568-0080. http://sweetkathleens.com
    • Storyville District: 125 Bourbon. 504-410-1000.
    • Royal Sonesta Can Can Jazz Café: 300 Bourbon. 504-553-2270. http://www.royalsonestano.com
    • Pete Fountain's Jazz Club: Hilton New Orleans Riverside Hotel (The APA hotel), Poydras. at the River. 504-561-0500.
    • Fritzel's European Jazz Pub: 733 Bourbon. 504-561-0432. http://expage.com/page/fritzels
  • Jazz and Blues
    •
    • House of Blues: make reservations in advance. 225 Decatur. 504-529-2624. http://www.hob.com
    • Preservation Hall: traditional live jazz, nightly, 8:30 ñ midnight: 726 St. Peter. 504-522-2841 or 800-785-5772. http://www.preservationhall.com
    • Palm Court Jazz Café: 1204 Decatur. 504-525-0200
    • Tipitina's: a stomping ground of the Neville Brothers. 235 N. Peters. 504-895-8477. http://www.tipitinas.com
    • Snug Harbor: Ellis Marsalis performs here many a Friday evening, 626 Frenchmen (below the Quarter). 504-949-0696. http://www.snugjazz.com
    • Margaritaville Cafe/ Storyville Tavern: hear local legends. 1104 Decatur. 504-592-2565; 1 French Market Place. 504-592-4177. http://www.margaritaville.com/neworleans
  • Irish
    •
    • Kerry Irish Pub: 331 Decatur Street. 504-527-5954.
    • O'Flaherty's Irish Channel Center & Pub: 514 Toulouse. 504-529-1317.
  • Latin
    •
    • Blue Nile: 534 Frenchmen (below the Quarter). 504-948-2583.
    • Cafe Brasil: 2100 Chartres at the corner of Frenchmen in the Faubourg Marigny. 504-949-0851.
    • Copa Cabana: "where Latins go to hear real Latin music." 7609 Airline Hwy. in the suburb of Metairie, 30-minutes from the Quarter. 504-456-6089.
    • El Matador: Saturday night Flamenco. 504 Esplanade. 504-569-8361.
    • Red Room: Built from parts removed from the Eiffel Tower. Wednesday night live Latin music and dancing, 8 p.m. 2040 St. Charles (b/w the Quarter & the Garden District). 504-528-9759.

    Restaurants: See also http://www.neworleansonline.com/cuisine/restaurants/conomenus.html

  • breakfast
    •
    • Bluebird Cafe: 3625 Prytania (b/w Garden District & Audubon Park). 504-895-7166.
    • La Madeleine French Bakery and Cafe: 547 St. Ann. 504-568-0073.
    • Petunia's: 817 St. Louis. 504-522-6440.
    • The Camelia Grill (take the streetcar to Riverbend area and expect a lineóbut it is worth it!)
  • Inexpensive (relatively speaking, that is)
    •
    • Cafe du Monde: go for beignets and coffee. 800 Decatur. 504-581-2914. cash only.
    • Cafe Roma French Quarter (pizza): 1119 Decatur. 504-566-1800.
    • Italian Pie CBD (pizza): 417 S. Rampart. 504-522-7552.
    • Joey K's (red beans & rice): 3001 Magazine (Garden District). 504-891-0997.
    • Mother's (red beans & rice): 401 Poydras. 504-523-9656.
    • Mystic Pizzeria and Cafe (pizza): 3244 Magazine (Garden District). 504-895-7272.
    • New York Pizza (pizza): 5201 Magazine (b/w Garden District & Audubon Park). 504-891-2376.
    • Port of Call (burgers): 838 Esplanade. 504-523-0120.
  • Moderate, local color (price range up to $20.00)
    •
    • The Alpine: 620 Chartres. 504-523-3005. http://www.thealpinebistro.com
    • Copeland's Cheesecake Bistro: 2001 St. Charles Ave. 504-593-9955. (the crawfish ravioli is excellent!)
    • Gamay Bistro: 320 Decatur. 504-299-8800.
    • Gumbo Shop: 630 St. Peter. 504-525-1486. http://www.gumboshop.com/
    • Hard Rock Cafe: (not exactly local color). 418 N. Peters. 504-529-5617.
    • House of Blues: 225 Decatur. 504-529-2624. http://www.hob.com
    • Louisiana Pizza Kitchen: 95 French Market Place. 504-522-9500.
    • Murielís Jackson Square: 801 Chartres. 504-568-1885.
    • Palace Cafe: 605 Canal. 504-523-1661.
    • The Praline Connection #2: 907 S. Peters St. 504-523-3973.
    • Royal Cafe: In the LaBranche House, perhaps the most picturesque corner in NOLA. 700 Royal. 504-528-9086. http://royalcafe.com/
  • Expensive ñ reservations are desiderata (entrées $25.00+)
    •
    • Andrew Jaegerís House of Seafood: 622 Conti. 504-522-4964.
    • Bella Luna: 914 N Peters. 504-529-1583.
    • Broussards: 819 Conti. 504-581-3866.
    • Commanderís Palace: 1403 Washington Ave (Garden District). 504-899-8221. http://www.commanderspalace.com (Chef Tory McPhail)
    • Dickie Brennan Steakhouse: 716 Iberville. 504-522-2467. http://www.dbrennanssteakhouse.com/
    • Emeril's Delmonico: 1300 St. Charles (west of the Quarter). 504-525-4937 (Chef Emeril Lagasse).
    • Emeril's Restaurant: 800 Tchoupitoulas. 504-528-9393 (Chef Emeril Lagasse).
    • Gabrielle Restaurant: 3201 Esplanade (near City Park). 504-948-6233.
    • K-Paulís Louisiana Kitchen: 416 Chartres. 504-596-2530 (Chef Paul Prudhomme).
    • Nola Restaurant: 534 St. Louis. 504-522-6652 (Chef Emeril Lagasse).
    • Rib Room, Omni Royal Orleans Hotel: 621 St. Louis. 504-529-7045.
    • Sazerac, Fairmont Hotel: 123 Baronne (on the other side of Canal). 504-529-4733.
    • The Grill Room at the Windsor Court: 300 Gravier (b/w Canal & Poydras). 504-522-1992.

    Pharmacies:

    • Walgreens: 619 DECATUR ST; store: 504-525-7260; pharmacy: 504-525-7263: close to the hotel: NOT a 24 hour store
    • Walgreens: 900 Canal ST; store: 504-568-9544; pharmacy: 504-568-1271: within walking distance: NOT a 24 hour store
    • Walgreens: 1801 ST CHARLES AVE; store: 504-561-8331; pharmacy: 504-561-8458: closest 24 hour store